Easy Pirate Shirt
This is a quick shirt, suitable for wear to Renn Faires and LARPs, Halloween costumes and for non-noble wear at SCA or Adrian Empire events. These directions presume you already know a bit about sewing, such as how to turn the neckline, make gathers, and insert elastic. If you don't know how to do these things, they aren't hard and there are tons of tutorials on the Internet about them. Google is your friend ;)
Materials:
Linen, Linen-blends, Cotton, poly-cotton. What material you get depends on the look you want and the use. Linen wrinkles if you look at it cross-eyed, but wears nicely. anything with Polyester (or other man-made materials) in it will generally not breathe and you'll probably get hot after a while.
Elastic or ribbon to thread through at the wrists
Thread
Measurements:
A) Around largest part of torso+5/2
B) Length (shoulder to hem) +2
C) Arm Length
D) Wrist
Purchase material Bx4 (/36 to get yardage) unless arms are less than 22" long, then you can buy Bx3.
Cutting Layout: (see image 1)
Cut one piece (Bx2) by A
Cut two pieces B by C
Cut one piece approx 10" x 15" (interfacing the neckhole)
If (C) is 22" or less, after you cut out piece 1, you can cut the remaining piece in half on the fold line, giving you 2 sleeves.
Directions:
Fold (1) in half along the length, then along the width (in 1/4)
Cut a neck hole 3" wide by 2" deep. (See image 2)
Open fabric to the length (still folded in half along the length) and cut one side of the neck hole approximately 1" deeper, then cut a slit down the middle front approximately 4" (see image 3) This is your keyhole for the neckline.
Fold the 10x15 piece in half lengthwise, and place it under the body of the shirt, overlapping the edges of the neckhole (see image 3). Pin together and cut the interfacing to match the keyhole. (image 3 pt 2) Sew around the edges, trim and turn. Some people just press this down, I prefer stitching around it after turning - I like the look of it. At this point you may wish to trim the interfacing and zigzag or otherwise finish the edges so that it doesn't fray.
Now you need to figure out the center point of the length of fabric (the shoulder) and 1/3 on either side of this point (basically 2/3 out of the middle). I do this by folding the fabric in thirds and marking the point with a pin. You can also use math (ack!) to figure it out - (Bx2)/3 This will tell you how far from the bottom hem on each side. (Image 4). You also need to find the center point of the side of the sleeve that will join to the shirt (selvage edge, usually).
Run gathering stitches along one edge of the sleeve. Match the center point of the sleeve to the center point (shoulder) of the shirt and pin. Pin the ends to the 1/3 marked point, then gather the sleeve to fit the shirt; repeat for the other side. Be sure to sew them right sides together, or they'll be wrong-side out when you're done!
Almost Done! Now fold the shirt inside out along the shoulder line, matching the sides and underarms of the sleeves. If you want side slits, remember to leave space at the bottom. Sew along the underarms and sides (both sides). Check it for correct length and sleeve length - remember that when you put in the elastic or ribbon ties that the sleeve will shorten a little bit and become "poufy."
Adjust as necessary, then hem the bottom and make casings for the elastic. You can leave the front slit open, or make buttonholes or insert grommets and put in a lacing; Run the elastic through the cuffs, tie off (or sew), and voila! You have a shirt!
